From Ken Adachi, Editor
Jan 9, 2012
After Smart Meters were installed in my neighborhood in October 2011, I borrowed a good quality German High Frequency (HF) meter to measure the intensity of microwave radiation being pulsed from the Smart meters every two minutes (24 hours a day). I was flabbergasted by the readings. In many cases, they exceeded the upper limit that the HF meter was capable of recording. I reported the details of the readings I got from Smart Meters in three radio interviews conducted with Don Nicoloff and ZS Livingstone. You can listen to those radio shows from these links:
(download the file, unzip it, and listen to the mp3 file in your media player)
Ken Adachi, ZSL & Don Nicoloff in Conversation Nov. 4, 2011 (Nov. 9, 2011) Smart Meters Part 3
Ken Adachi, ZSL & Don Nicoloff in Conversation Nov. 3, 2011 (Nov. 5, 2011) Smart Meters Part 2
Ken Adachi, ZSL & Don Nicoloff in Conversation Nov. 1, 2011 (Nov. 5, 2011)Smart Meters Part 1
The Dark Side of ‘Smart’ Meters with Rob States, MS; MIT trained engineer and expert in microwave energy systems
[This is a well done, easy to understand presentation on the dangers of Smart Meters and microwave devices. Listen carefully and pay attention to details]
Uploaded by eon3 on Nov 1, 2010 In this invitational presentation to the San Francisco Tesla Society consulting engineer Rob States explains how PG&E’s so-called ‘smart’ meters work and why they endanger health and privacy. He asks the obvious question, “Why would you trust thecompany that brought you Prop. 16?” For more info: www.EMFSafetyNetwork.org StopSmartMeters. and www.wordpress.com EON3EMFblog.net BioInitiative.org
I also took HF meter readings outside many homes in my immediate area, as well as readings inside my home and that of a neighbor’s home. I was shocked to discover that people who use Wifi wireless routers inside their homes are simply bathing themselves in high intensity microwave energy fields 24 hours a day. Pointing my HF meter 5-10 feet away from the front door or a front window, I could immediately see who was using WiFi routers (or cordless phones inside their homes. Often, the readings were in the 25-100 microwatt range, but I was also getting readings as high as 200-400 microwatts outside of their windows and exterior walls. Inside a couple of the homes I checked, the readings were as high as 600-1,000 microwatts.
That is an insane amount of microwave energy to subject your body to 24 hours a day.
German and Austrian environmental health groups recommend one microwatt (1 uw) as the upper limit of exposure to microwave energy fields.
If you want to preserve your health, get rid of ALL wireless devices in your home. First, stop using wireless routers, wireless printers, wireless keyboards, wireless mouse, etc. Then get rid of cordless phones if you use them. If you must use a cell phone, use it on speaker phone mode or use the ear buds to listen and talk, but don’t put the cell phone directly against your ear as most people foolishly do. We are going to have an explosion of brain cancers in 20 or 30 years from now and cell phones are going to be the reason for it. If you are pregnant, you cannot be living in a high intensity RF field, such as that produced by a wireless router. You have no idea how much developmental danger that presents to a growing fetus.
If you have wireless devices in your home and you don’t notice any symptoms of RF pollution yet, just wait a few year–you will. And the older you are, the faster it will happen. The tolerance to RF energy fields goes down over time. Your body can absorb and handle so much, but after you pass a certain tolerance point, the body goes into overload and you will get the typical symptoms of dizziness, light headedness, head congestions, nervousness, palpitations, inability to fall asleep, etc. The body is like a rain barrel that will gradually fills up from RF energy pollution and when it hits the top of the barrel and begins to overflow, you’ll begin to notice the symptoms.
Once you are sensitized to high intensity RF fields, it’s not so easy to become un-sensitized to that energy and you have to work a lot harder to live in a very low intensity RF environment to feel normal again. Save yourself the wear and tear on your body. Get rid of ALL wireless devices in your home–today.
If the microwave energy is coming from outside your home (such as from Smart meters or cell phones towers close to you), you can reduce the penetratiion of those RF energy fields into your home by enclosing your living space with an all metal enclosure. The ideal shielded room would have continuous, solid metal coverings on all four walls, the ceiling and floor (the equivalent of an all metal box), and then be grounded to earth. The more dense and thicker the metal, the better the shielding (E.g. lead or gold foil will shield better than aluminum foil, but copper is often used for RF shielding because it’s a good conductor of electrons and not exceedingly expensive). The very best metal for blocking RF energy is an alloy called Mu metal, but it is extremely and prohibitively expensive to buy. The shielding ideas I will describe here will start with the least expensive (and easy to obtain) and move towards the more expensive, and more difficult to install.
Aluminized Mylar Blankets, The Least Expensive Method
To minimize microwave energy fields entering your home from Smart Meters or your abutting neighbor’s wireless computer router transmitter, you can line your interior walls with aluminized Mylar sheeting called “energy blankets” typically found at sporting good stores, or camping equipment stores, or even from drug stores in some areas. The ones I bought are called “Space brand, Emergency Blanket, First-Aid Thermal Blanket” (available from www.warmers.com). I paid $3.99 each, purchased at a local Big 5 sporting goods store, but are now available at Ebay for $0.99 (China, Hong Kong) or $1.21 (Hong Kong), or $1.26 (China), or $1.29 (Malaysia) with Free Shipping. The “blanket” is made of thin Mylar plastic with an aluminum coating on one side. The one I bought measures 56 inches x 84 inches and weighs 3 oz.
The aluminized coating is conductive to radio frequency (RF) waves and will collect some of that energy and not allow it to radiate to the other side of the Mylar sheet, thus blocking or shielding some portion of the RF energy. I measured the DC resistance (using my digital multi meter) from one corner of the “blanket” to the opposite diagonal corner and got a resistance reading of only 6.2 ohms, which is quite good considering the thinness of the aluminized coating. Remember that the aluminized coating is only on one side of the Mylar sheet, the opposite side of the sheet is Mylar plastic so we have to carefully identify which side of the sheet has the aluminum coating. The only sure way is to take a resistance reading using a multi-meter or ohm meter.
The aluminized side will register a relatively low reading in ohms while the opposite side will register an infinity reading. The aluminized side is slightly shinier than the plastic side and you might “feel” the aluminized side is different than the plastic side (but use a meter to be sure). The significance of knowing which side has the aluminum coating will become apparent when we install the sheets on the wall and overlap their edges to insure a single conductive surface.
If you know from which direction that microwave energy is being radiated into your home, you can put up a wall of these aluminized energy blankets, ground them to the grounding socket of your grounded electric wall outlet, and effectively install a grounded metal shield barrier to the RF energy. This will essentially cut down the RF energy entering that protected space. I’ve taken RF energy readings both in front of the grounded Mylar energy blankets and behind them and found the shielding to be quite good (considering the low cost and thinness of the aluminized coating).
You can block most RF energy from entering a designated space by erecting a six sided metal box (four walls, ceiling and floor) or cage all around that space and grounding out the metal. A “Faraday cage” is simply the radio engineer’s name for such a metal enclosure. If the frequency is not too high, you can get away with all-metal screening such as fine mesh copper screening or aluminum screening. Solid and continuous metal foil (thicker the better) will block very high frequency RF waves better than screening, but I would still use screening if I had no other choice. In our case, we are using the aluminized Mylar energy blanket as a substitute for solid aluminum foil. It’s not nearly as thick as aluminum foil and therefore not as effective, but it’s easy to mold it to whatever shape you want and it won’t tear apart. If we actually tried to do the job with aluminum foil, you know how easily it would tear and how unwieldy it is to maneuver, but the aluminized Mylar sheeting works like a dream. It doesn’t tear easily, yet it’s lightweight and very flexible. A reasonably effective, yet inexpensive, choice for our homemade microwave shielding.
Aluminum Screen Shielding
Aluminum screening is easy to obtain, relatively inexpensive, and does a remarkably good job of blocking microwave energy, even when ungrounded (which was a big surprise to me). This video will show you how effectively aluminum screening can cut down on microwave energy, but you should not assume that it’s okay to keep a WiFi router or a cordless phone inside your home using aluminum screening because you will just bounce the microwave energy around inside your house, which you don’t want. Use aluminum screening to keep the bulk of RF energy out of your home, from outside sources. Don’t push it around from inside sources that you are generating.
Home experiments using aluminum screening to cut down on microwave penetration
Uploaded by thisirradiatedlife on Aug 30, 2011
How well does common aluminum screening shield radio-frequency radiation?
Here is another video about the HF analyzer used in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s99i0H-nBw4
Use of aluminum screening to block Smart Meter RF radiation
Foiling a “Smart” Meter, Part Two: Aluminum Mesh Screening
[Note that this lady is using an additional signal attenuator (shown in-line with the antennae connector wire) with her meter that I didn’t have when I made my tests using the same model meter. Her readings are able to detect the full wattage of microwave radiation coming from the Smart Meter. Her readings are showing peaks of 95,000 micro watts coming off the Smart Meter. That’s the same thing as 95 milli watts of microwave energy. This pulse of microwave energy is being emitted every one minute with Smart Meters on a 24/7 basis. Austrian and Swiss environmental safety groups have determined that one micro watt is the safe limit for human exposure of microwave radiation (the industry sellouts in the FCC say 600 micro watts is the upper limit). The normal background reading of microwave radiation is usually 0.3 to 0.5 micro watts in an urban environment. Some electric power companies were falsely stating that their Smart Meters were putting 100 times LESS microwave energy than a cell phone call. Cell phones will measure 200-400 micro watts right next to the phone while taking a call. Therefore, electric power companies were claiming that the Smart Meter was putting out 2-4 microwatts, when the truth is, Smart meters put out as much as 95,000 micro watts of microwave energy every 1- 2 minutes. 24 hours a day. ]
Uploaded by thisirradiatedlife on Sep 7, 2011
Part Two of http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL2JQ0FbgvU
Foiling a “Smart” Meter on the Street.. Instrument used here was a high frequency analyzer, with one attenuator on the antenna, changing the read-out by a factor of 100 (i.e. 100x less sensitive) so “010” on read-out = 1000 µW/m2 (equiv to 0.1 µW/cm2)
Microwave Detection Meter
The German HF meter I used, Model HF35C,was purchased from www.lessemf.com . Here’s a descripton of the meter from their web site. It costs $430
HIGH FREQUENCY METER
Calibrated, Directional, Accurate, Sensitive
This is the Recommend Meter for Checking “Smart Meter” Emissions
We like this calibrated wideband (800 MHz – 2.5 GHz) RF meter because it has a switch which allows a choice of peak or average indication mode. This permits accurate measurement of both digital and analog signals. Two ranges: 1 – 1999 µW/m² (same as 0.1 – 199.9 nW/cm²) and 0.1 – 199.9 µW/m² (same as 0.01 – 19.99 nW/cm²).
In addition, you get a choice of audio tone – none, or intensity proportional to field strength, or proportional to frequency (for analyzing pulsed signals)
– accuracy ±6 dB
– true logarithmic – periodic antenna, 800 MHz – 2.5 GHz, single polarized, included
– standard 9V battery included
Easily detects cell phone towers, cordless phones even microwave oven leaks. Instructions in German and English. The 3 minute YouTube video at right demonstrates how the sounds from this meter help distinguish different sources of RF (video sound starts after 19 seconds). 2 year Warranty. Model HF35C.
The Sounds of Different RF Radiation Sources with a HF Analyzer
If you obtain the above meter, you can recognize the source of the RF energy by noting the different sound patterns produced by the meter. This video clips demonstrate 5 different sources of microwave energy and the unique sound patterns they produce.
You need to rent, buy, or borrow a meter like this in order to determine where you need shielding in your home.
Buy enough Mylar energy blankets to cover the area you want to shield. Two energy blankets laid out with the long axis horizontal, will cover a wall from floor to ceiling if your ceiling is not more than 8 feet high. Most ceilings are 7 feet, 6 inches or so. We need to use wide strips of aluminum foil to join the edges of the Mylar energy blankets together so we get a solid metal connection and good conductance between each adjacent energy blanket attached to the wall. I’ll explain with diagrams further below how to do it.
Remove the Mylar energy blanket from the box, unroll it, and spread it out flat on the floor. You need to determine which side has the aluminum coating by testing with a Digital multi meter set to the resistance scale. After setting the scale to read resistance, place the two test probes on one side of the Mylar sheet and see which sides shows a relatively low reading in ohms. That’s the side with the aluminized coating. I placed a short piece of blue masking tape in each corner of the aluminized side so I would know which side had the aluminum coating when I begin to install it.
I overlapped the edges with 3 inches of aluminized mylar facing each other and I placed a 2.5 inch strip of regular aluminum foil in between the two mylar overlap edges so you have your aluminum foil strip touching both faces of the aluminized sides of each mylar sheet. This will insure a better conducting surface for grounding. I then fold the 3 inch overlaped section twice to give me a tight contact between the aluminum strip and the aluminized mylar sheets. I then tape the folded seam to the mylar sheet using 2 inch wide clear tape. You can overlap and connect as many mylar sheets as you want if you want to cover the entire ceiling, for example. If you live on the ground floor, then you don’t have to worry about covering the floor, but if you live in an apartment on an upper floor, and you know there is a souce of microwave energy below you (such as a WiFi router in the apartment below you) then you might want to cover the floor as well. You can place large area rugs on top of the mylar sheet to make it look better and not hear the crunching sound every time you walk on it. I would not wear shoes if I was walking on the mylar sheets. If you do install the mylar on the floor, keep the aluminized side UP. After the sheet is properly gounded, and you walk on the sheet with your bare feet, you are effectively grounding your body and it could help relieve you of some EMF symptoms.
While just placing a mylar energy blanket between you and a source of microwave energy will have some attenuating effect, you will get a better shielding effect if you connect the aluminizes side of the mylar energy blanket to a solid ground connection. If your apartement is properly wired in compliance with the National Electric Code, all of your wall outlets will have only grounded electrical outlets. Assuming you have grounded electric outlets, you still need to check that the outlet is both wired with the correct polarity going to each side of the electric plug (Hot and Neutral connections) AND determine if the outlet is properly grounded. To do that, you buy an electric outlet Circuit Tester available at Home Depot, or Lowe’s, or any retail electrical supply store. They will probably cost somewhere between $5 – 8. .
Here’s a photo of the one I’ve been using for many years. I bought it at Sears. The one you buy from Home Depot will likely be green in color and made in China (mine, I’m proud to say, was made by the “Cable Elect Prod Inc” of Providence, Rhode Island, right here in the USA where we use to produce anything and everything ourselves ~ prior to the NWO takeover game plan. Hopefully, we will once again produce all kinds of neat things in American factories, filled with legal American citizens, after we get rid of the NWO sellouts, traitors, banksters, and psychopaths).
To test your outlet, plug the cicuit tester into the wall outlet and the 3 LED lights will tell you the story. With my tester, when the two LED lights on the right side are green, the outlet is both wired with the correct polarity (Hot and Neutral) and it is properly grounded.
Once you have confirmed that your outlet is properly gounded (and do not avoid doing this test, otherwise you could be in for a nasty surprise), you can find an old grounded electric cord from an appliance (with a grouded plug of course) that you no longer use, or a computer cord from an old mainframe computer with the grounded plug on one end and the female connector on the other end (cut off the female connector). We will cut off the two brass blades (with a hacksaw) that normally fit into the wall socket for the Hot and Neutral connections and only leave the rounded ground prong in place. You strip off about 8 or 10 inches of the outer insulated covering and expose the three wires inside. They are usually black, white and green. We will cut the black and white wires off at the place where they emerge from the outer covering. You can wrap electrical tape around a few times in the area where the wires emerge from the outer covering so you only see the green wire coming out. You attach an alligator clip to the end of the green wire. I prefer to solder the wire to the alligator clip, but you can use the screw on the alligator clip if you wish.
When you plug the ground prong plug into a properly grounded wall outlet, the alligator clip connected to the green wire is now connected to an earth ground. You then attach the grounded alligator clip to the edge of the mylar energy blanket so one side of the alligator clip is touching the aluminized side and the other side of the alligator clip is touching the plastic side of the mylar sheet. You could fold two or three layers of aluminum foil into a match book size wedge and place the wedge along the edge on either side of the sheet and attach the alligator clip over the aluminum wedge. It will give you a better ground by widening the surface area of contact with the aluminized side of the sheet. If you overlapped your seams as described above, then all of your connected mylar energy blankets will now be grounded and a substantial portion of microwave emergy that it encounters will be shunted to earth ground.
( to be continued )